March into Spring

            March is a guessing game in the garden.  Will it snow or rain?  Will it warm up soon?  Will it stay warm?  Should I remove the winter protection from plants?  About the only thing we can count on is that March to shall pass and maybe April will let us do more gardening.

            March is the month to start many seeds for transplants.  Be sure to uses a soil-less mix to avoid damping off, a seedling disease common when using mixes that contain soil. 

            To determine when to start your flower and vegetable transplants, count back from the date plants can safely be set out in your area.  As a rule most flowers and vegetables need to be started about six to eight weeks before transplanting time.

            Check the seed packet to determine if the seeds can be started indoors or should be sown directly in the ground when the weather warms.  Starting seeds indoors not only gives you a jump on the growing season, often leading to earlier harvests, but also allows you to have many varieties you can’t find at greenhouses and garden stores.

            Early March is a perfect time to finish the pruning of fruit trees, ornamental trees, and summer-flowering shrubs, providing you do it before the buds start to swell.  Wait to prune spring-flowering shrubs until they’ve bloomed, however, or you’ll cut off the buds and won’t get any flowers.

            Always use sharp pruning shears.  Make your cuts as close to the branch as possible as this will help the tree heal its wounds.  Prune to provide good branch angles (about 45°) and allow adequate air circulation and sunlight penetration.  This is also a good time to remove branches and limbs damaged in winter storms.  Just don’t mistake dormant twigs for winter kill and snap them off!

            Easter is early this year – March 31.  The flower that most often comes to mind, when we think of Easter, is the Easter lily.   Choose a well-proportioned plant, one that’s about two times as high as the pot.  Check the buds, flowers, and leaves – especially the undersides – for signs of insect pests and disease.

            To keep your lily healthy at home, remove the decorative foil or paper covering the pot, or make a hole in the bottom, to allow better drainage.  Put your plant where it will get plenty of bright, indirect light and cool temperatures.  About 40 to 50° F at night and below 68° F during the day is ideal. 

            Keep the soil constantly moist.  To prolong the life of the blossoms, remove the yellow, pollen-bearing pods or anthers found in the center of each flower.

DON’T expect your lily to flower again as it’s already been “forced” once by the grower to bloom in time for Easter.  However, you might get your lily to bloom again next fall by planting it outdoors once the soil has warmed up.

While you are waiting for the soil to dry, here are a few late winter chores:

•   Check out your garden tools, patio furniture, window boxes, etc.  Paint, repair or                   discard so you are ready to go when it’s really nice out.

•   Begin to transplant pot-bound houseplants.

•   Continue to inspect houseplants for pests and control as needed.

•   Cut back leggy houseplants.

•  You can start fertilizing houseplants but don’t fertilize the lawn until it has been mowed a few times.

•   Order seeds!  Hey that’s always fun.  Try something new this year!

            You don’t have to be Irish to buy a shamrock plant this month in celebration of St. Patrick’s Day.  Shamrocks, a member of the Oxalis family, are easy to grow and are available at many garden centers and florist shops.  Like most houseplants, they prefer a sunny location and need periodic watering to ensure an evenly moist soil.