Monday, November 10, 2014

NOVEMBER CHILL IS THE LAST CALL FOR WINTERIZING GARDENS


   Falling temperatures have reminded us that our time of illusion is over and winter will be here soon.  We don’t need to watch the nightly TV weather forecast to know that there is a chill in the air.  Plants feel it too and like people, need to bundle up for the winter.
 
    The first step is to clean up the total landscape.  Fallen leaves and twigs can become hazardous.  Lawn grasses need air and can’t thrive under a coating of wet leaves.  As leaves decay they create slippery spots on walks and patios, and those leaves can lead to falls.  (Another one of those reasons for the name of the season?) Keep garden litter raked up this month and throughout winter.  Discard any diseased leaves, but place healthy leaves in compost piles to decay over winter and provide excellent mulch in spring.


            November is typically a rainy month, so we need to keep surface water flowing rather than backing up.  To help prevent yard debris from clogging storm drains, be sure to rake away leaves and twigs that wash into drain openings.  Check for jammed or leaky gutters, because water overflow onto plants can erode soil around them, causing root exposure and plant damage.  Soil that washes off landscapes can enter streams and rivers, reducing water quality and making life more challenging for fish species.
 
Mulching is one of the best lines of defense for perennial plants against chilling temperatures.  Mulching also can prevent the repeated freezing and thawing of soil that causes plants to “heave” out of the ground. 

            But the trick is not to mulch too soon.  Mulching needs to be done after the ground starts to freeze but before the first significant snowfall of the year.  If you mulch sooner, mice and other rodents may nest in the mulch, and plants may not be completely dormant.  The end of November is a good time to apply.  If an early snowfall is predicted, you may want to apply before it hits.

            Apply at least three to four inches thick around each plant.  After you’ve laid it down, gently pull it away from the trunks and stems to give plants room to breathe.  This helps prevent disease problems.  Deeper mulching may be necessary in especially cold or windy sites.

            Tie up long rose canes and other climbing vines to keep them from whipping and breaking in strong wing storms.  November isn’t the month to give roses a heavy pruning.  But you can trim back canes lightly to reduce wind damage.  Remember to mulch over the graft union on roses, and save the major pruning for late February.

During the winter, hungry deer look for young, tender growth to eat.  Often this means the branches of your new tree or shrub.  To protect your plants in winter, wrap the tree or shrub with burlap or netting, covering the plant or at least extending the covering 5 to 6 feet high around the plant.  You may also try hanging bars of smelly soap near plants, which may repel them.  Just don’t hang the bars on the plants, as this may attract mice!

Winterizing Tips:          
           Empty garden hoses and bring indoors during winter.
           Turn off outside water faucets.
           Store your garden tools and furniture.
           The most important fertilization of the year for lawns is late fall – apply before November 15.
           Don’t cut off tops of perennials until they have dried (usually late winter).
           Water trees and shrubs thoroughly before the ground freezes.
           Put up Christmas outdoor lighting before the blast of storms and freezing cold conditions.
           Try not to shovel salted snow onto your plants.

Tom McNutt is a professor emeritus at The Ohio State University and a retired TV garden expert.

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